Front axles are 0.781' diameter drill blanks. Body mounts are 1/16' diameter aluminum tubing. Neither pancake or inline - they are direct drive successors to the Rattler line. I'm sure there are some out there.Īnd just in case someone thinks I should put up or shut up, here's a sneak peek at two of my HO development chassis. So let's see what folks have been working on. Would a Slide Guide-like system be a productive upgrade? Oh you know where I stand on that! Again the electricals are the tricky bits. The new 'N' and 'M' class motors are the natural powerplant for them. I believe a lot of work has been done there already. Remember that chassis was designed to be a toy! One of the wonderful things about it was that children could fuss with it and, despite fumble-fingered incompetence, often improve its performance.

And better oil retention.Ĭould the T-Jet chassis design be improved? Oh God yes. Also less dimensional change at temperature. Not least of which is much higher heat tolerance and better heat dissipation. I'd strongly favor replacing the molded-in bearings for the armature with Oilite bushings. My first candidate for material would be PETG, although Nylon would be more heat-tolerant. Otherwise there doesn't appear to be much challenge to printing a pancake-motored chassis. The whole electrical underpinnings need to be rethought. Minor mods, like locating the gear plate with projections off the main chassis, rather than projections off the gear plate itself.Īlso ditching the leaf springs for the commutator brushes, replacing same with coil springs. At first glance it looks like a few minor mods would make it eminently printable. The venerable pancake chassis design has been stuck in limbo for dang near 60 years. So, has anyone been experimenting with printing HO chassis? These imperfections can be easily sanded smooth.It's high time this forum lost its virginity.

There can be build marks, bumps, and divots due to the manufacturing process. It can be painted with acrylic, enamel, and plastic automotive paints. Body requires screw to mount on chassis for racing.īody is made of ABS-Like High Impact Tough plastic, which is strong, flexible, and can be sanded. Sand with 300 or smoother grit paper for smooth surface. I find that Rust-Oleum primer 2 in 1 filler & sandable works best. Spray with sandable primer, 2 coats, to fill between the layer lines. To finish body, clean up any support structure remaining with exact-o knife. Body snaps on and off chassis for racing.īody is made of PLA plastic, which is strong, flexible, but requires file to sand.

Sl1 3d printed slot car chassis